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Tie Rod End Replacement

by:Goshen     2020-06-04
A quick background, I'd a slight shimmy around my 1.8TQMS. In the hunt, I did the certified wheel bearing check. This is when you have the car on a jack, and you try to wiggle the wheel. There should be NO play. I learned that I could move the wheel back and forth (your hands at 3-9 on the wheel) a primary amount. Well looking around I found this: You can see lots of damage. I went to ESC Tuning and purchased their Tie rod ends kit for both sides plus new hardware, shipped for just under $100. I would rate an expert a fairly easy 7. Where as the timing belt job is a 7 or 8. No real special tools or skill are required. The Disclaimer! I am not a mechanic and probably neither are you just in case reading this. This article if for general guidance only and if you break yourself or your car it is your own fault! What you'll need: Jack and Jack-stands Torque wrench 14 and 16mm sockets 18mm and 22mm box end (however a 22mm crows feet are recommend, Received one for $3 at Autozone) ruler or some other measuring device. What else did I take advantage of? Blue thread lock, silver anti-seize Channel locks Hex key set I used the Bently CD like a guide, but keep in your thoughts if make use of it that it is description usually remove Your entire TIE ROD not the end. It has an excellent diagram of how things go, and of course the appropriate torque settings. Jack inside the car and take away the table. If you haven't seen Andy_TN 's outstand pics of the proper jack/jack stand points here you go. Getting function 1. Jack the car up to get it within stands. Although safer then leaving it on the stand you will need the interface. From the lower control arm, jack the entire suspension back up, in order for is back at a 'normal' height. his will insure that it is much to be able to remove stuff and is essential everything is lined save later. 2. Next measure the gap from the rear of the tie rod towards the lock enthusiast. You will need to know this for reassembly. The more precise this measurement is the ideal. I had my car aligned a great procedure, mastering tech said the toe-in was correct so for anybody who is careful here you may not have to shell out for an alignment. 3. Make use of your 22mm box end or crows foot and loosen the lock nut. Brace the tie rod using a 18mm box end directly behind or do like I did and grab with the channel locks CAUTION don't damage this 18mm adjustment hex, as this is what is applied to set the toe in of one's car. The nut only goes lets start work on 30 ft/lbs of torque so it came off easily. 4. Remove top bolt with 14mm socket and nut this 16mm. The side nut is on a self hold bolt, an individual back it off, it would try to turn, just hold it in (towards you) a person undo the nut. Remove and discard the old hardware apart from the lock nut. (you got the hardware kit like I told you RIGHT!) 5. Pull down firmly on the tie rod, it can pretty tight, you can wedge something between control arm as well as the suspension structure if your are stuck. We were able get rid of mine with only a slight wiggling of your rod while i pulled down. Once it is loose, just unscrew the tie rod inside adjustment hex. 6. Consider the lock nut and thread it back on brand new tie rod to the gap you measured in step 2, plus one or two gets. This is where I used a small amount of the silver anti-seize compound on the threads of this new tie rod ends and then thread the tie rod back through the adjustment hex, back a great deal as the lock nut. Measure one more hours and finger tighten the lock fan. 7. Be sure that the groove in the upright in the new rod end is aligned with where the medial side bolt runs through. This is where are big hex key or hex socket is useful to turn the upright. Now run the tie rod back in. Again it will be very tight, just a little wiggling will necessary. Cautiously temptation of hitting it from below, as this is where the actual joint is always. Adjusting the jack stand up and down just a little may help. Also if your measuring wasn't exact this perhaps a problem because the upright must exactly in line with the hole. 8. Now it's possible to replace ideal bolt and side fanatic. I looked all through Bentley and can even not choose a specific torque value of these two. They weren't on there particularly tight when I took them off, provides you with used 30lbs, with number of drops of blue thread lock. 9. Tighten the lock nut to 30lbs (if you are using the crows foot connected to your torque wrench) or 'pretty tight' if you are using a box end wrench. All designed! Replace the wheel, and do sleep issues. Not only did this get rid of the shimmy, but also the front end feels noticeably tighter. The first side took about 30 mins as I believed stuff out, and the other about 10.
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